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The ultimate goals for shape & structure in Apple trees are either a mushroom shaped tree; wide & low or an open tree; you can throw a hat through the branches. Branches should be growing 12 - 18" apart.

Pruning rules for branches growing under, up, down, and crossing:

Under: leave room to work underneath the branches of the tree to hoe, weed, and trim the grass. Never let sprouts grow below the graft of the tree (base of the trunk).
Up: Cut all branches growing straight up (except main stem)
Down: Cut all branches growing straight down
Crossing: Cut all branches that touch each other when by crossing over each other; this closeness could lead to injury & disease

Pruning Schedule

Each plant variety has different pruning needs. If you do not find information about your plant here please call before clipping.

The timing of tree pruning is quite simple. The best time is late winter to early spring, or late fall once all the growth is finished. Late September till freeze up is good. Maples and Birches are exceptions to spring pruning as they will "bleed" sap, causing some stress; they should be pruned in the fall.

Shrubs grown primarily for foliage can be pruned almost all year around. These varieties include: Dogwoods, Amur Maples, Sumacs, Alpine Currents, Cotoneaster, Ninebark, and Barberries.

Flowering shrubs are a bit trickier. Some shrubs bloom off of fresh growth and some off of last years growth. Fresh growth bloomers can be pruned first thing in spring. These varieties would include: Hydranges, Potentillas, Dwarf Pink Spireas, False Spireas, Honey suckles, and Roses.

Plants blooming off of last years growth should be pruned immediately after they have finished flowering. This is generally mid to late June. If they are pruned at other times during the year you will cut off the new flower buds.These varieties include: Lilacs, Tall White Spireas, and Mock Oranges.

It is best for Evergreen trees and shrubs to be pruned early spring so that their fresh growth can cover the clipped look.

Full Care Sheet and Warranty

Pre-growth Warranty: All trees/shrubs purchased before leafing out in spring (before new growth in evergreens) may be returned for a replacement if they do not leaf out at all. A pro-rated in-store credit is available if more than the top 20% of a tree does not leaf out. After the tree/shrub produces new growth for the season, standard growing season warranty applies.

Standard Warranty: Most trees/shrubs are warranted against death for the first growing season. If your plant has died, contact us first in case it is only dormant, preferably via email with a picture and description. If we determine it is covered by the standard warranty, you must bring in the sales receipt along with the dead plant, and we will replace it with a healthy plant of equal value. All plants not covered by standard warranty are marked on signs and asterisked (*) on your receipt.

Labour: There is no warranty on labour.


  • Damage due to natural disasters or extreme weather conditions, or caused by animals, insects, or humans (wrongdoing, vandalism, negligence, etc). Most plants die from under- or over-watering, so please follow directions and contact us with questions.
  • *Standard warranty lasts until October 31 of the purchase year.
  • Sales items are only covered by pre-growth warranty.
  • *Evergreens are only covered by pre-growth warranty. They require extra care because they do not signal stress as quickly as deciduous plants (ie. needles fall 3 months after stress).
  • Fringe/specialty trees/shrubs are only covered by pre-growth warranty, typically plants that are semi-hardy or top-grafted products. They are all clearly marked on signs and receipt.
  • Trees/shrubs already replaced once on warranty are not covered – warranty is one time only.
  • Annual flowers, vegetables or perennials are not covered by any warranty.

We now offer a worry-free extended warranty program. Available for all hardy trees and shrubs including evegreens purchased at regular price (our most tender or experimental trees/shrubs do not qualify), this program extends our warranty against death for 1 full year from the purchase date. Speak to a manager at purchase to sign and date this Extended Warranty Commitment. The cost is an additional 35% of regular purchase price. All other exclusions apply.

We usually recommend fertilizing your baskets & containers at least once a week, however each fertilizer is different. Check the instructions on the package your fertilizer came in for the amount to put into your container or basket and how often.

If you have a water soluble fertilizer you can fertilize every time you water, this is a fast acting fertilizer so make sure you do not add to much of the fertilizer powder into your watering can as you don't want to make it to powerful for you plant. After 3 - 4 waterings water once without any fertilizer to give the plant a cleanse.

If you have a slow release fertilizer put 1 tbsp. of fertilizer in your container or basket every two weeks. If you notice that your plants leaves are yellowing or lack flowers you can give the plant a fast boost with a one time shoot of water soluble fertilizer.

You can fertilizer your baskets & containers all season long, from May - September.

There are two options for fertilizing.

Option #1 fertilize once in mid April and once again in late June or early July. Do not fertilize after the first week of July otherwise the plant will continue to send out new growth and will not go dormant on time for winter. All that new growth will die and create an opening for freezing within the plant.

Option #2 fertilizer once in late October when the plant has gone dormant. This fertilizer will not act until next spring but will save you some time then. In spring you can fertilizer once in mid June. Don't fertilize any earlier than mid June if you fertilized in fall; the fertilizer from fall will still be acting in early spring and you can do burn damage to the plant if you add more fertilizer to early.

A 10" basket or container will usually bloom steadily until end of July, if fertilized and watered regularly. The larger the size of the basket the longer the plant will bloom as it has more room to grow.

If you plants stops flowering, gets leggy or sparse you can trim it back to about 3" from the rim of the basket. Place the basket in a part sun / part shade area and give it careful watering and fertilizing as it needs. This will help it grow back into fullness.

Another option is to transplant your basket or container into a larger pot. This will give the plant more room for root space thus better branching and flowering :) A trim will also be helpful clean up any leggy branches in this situation.

Trees & Shrubs:

Make a small dike around your plant (about a 1/2' away from the trunk) and then fill the dike full with water. 2 - 3 days later check the soil about 1" below the surface; if the soil crumbles between your fingers, fill the dike again; if the soil is sticky leave it for another day or two then check again. Always check the soil before watering :) You don't want to leave your plant totally dry or continually soggy.

Remember to think about the weather when watering. If it has been raining lots you may not need to water as much, if it has been raining just a little the soil may be wet on top but totally dry underneath - always check; if it has been hot and dry or very windy you may need to water every other day instead of every 3. If you keep an eye on your plants they will thrive for you :)

Baskets & Containers:

Stick your finger into the soil up to you first knuckle, if the soil feels dry water the basket or container until you can see the water running out of the bottom of the pot. If the soil is still damp let it sit for another day. Once you have watered the basket or container let it dry out until the dry is crumbly again. Baskets & containers do not like to be continually soggy. Dry is better than wet for baskets and containers; if you maintain even moisture they will bloom for you again and again.

Fruit plants will not give fruit until they have become established in their planted spot. Each kind of fruit will vary in its establishing time.

Most fruit shrubs (honeyberries, gooseberries, currents, grapes, ......) will give fruit in the second year after they have been planted. Cherries may take 3 years to give fruit.

Apple & Plum trees will range from 2 - 4 years.

Pear trees can take up to 5 - 6 years.

If you keep the soil around your fruit plants black (free of weeds, grass etc.), fertilizer, and water them regularly this will speed up their establishing process. It will take a plant much longer to settle in if they are fighting against weeds, don't have enough moisture etc.

Rule of thumb - don't plant any tree or shrub deeper than the level of soil in the pot.

Dig a hole about as deep as the pot is tall and about twice as wide as the pot.
It is helpful for the roots if you loosen the dirt on the sides of the hole by making cuts into the sides with your shovel.
Take the pot of your plant and stick the plant into the hole.
Fill in the sides of the hole with loose soil and pack into all in.
You can put a tiny layer of soil on top of the roots to help pack everything in but again the soil should be no higher than it was in the pot or the trunk will rot.

Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and onion plants can be planted in early - mid May as they can handle -3 Celsius temperatures. Should the temperature go lower than -3 make sure to cover the plants with blankets to save them from freezing.

Most seeds can be planted between May 15th and 20th.

Tomatoes, watermelons, and pepper plants are more weather tender and need to be planted after the risk of frost is gone; end of May or even early June is the safest time.

Good news!! For container grown trees and shrubs if the ground is not frozen you can plant anytime spring, summer, or fall :)

Moving (transplanting) an established plant or planting a bare root plant should only be done when the plant is dormant (no leaves). Early spring or late fall is best.

Evergreens are the exception for transplanting (moving from one planted location to another). These can be moved early spring before they bud out or after mid august and through out the fall. Evergreens can be transplanted earlier in fall than other plant varieties because of their very early dormancy.